"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's the best they're going to feel all day"
Frank Sinatra.
Monday, November 21, 2011
Monday, November 14, 2011
How Tweet It Is
Follow me on twitter for random recommendations, updates, pics and slurred words...
https://twitter.com/#!/DansGrogBlog
https://twitter.com/#!/DansGrogBlog
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Iti one on...
I have a new favourite to add to my list of 'Love' wines.
On Saturdays I go to work. A devastating state of affairs only slightly remedied by having Mondays off. One thing that softens the blow is knowing that my brilliant wife is busying herself with what invariably becomes a soporific feast worthy of Kings and Queens; something to look forward to as I tear at the coal-face of indentured servitude...
My task, not difficult given my occupation, is to bring home a wine to match.
A few weeks ago the recipe was lasagne. A simple enough dish enlivened by Ricotta, Basil and spinach, accompanied by a simple rocquette salad, dressed with EVOO and balsamic.
THIS CALLS FOR A TUSCAN! I said to myself, startling various shoppers.
I like to meander up and down the aisles, allowing vinous inspiration to leap out at me from the heaving shelves.
A Chianti Classico here, an Amarone there, a Toscana or a Barolo for good measure...
On this particular Saturday I flashed back to a tasting brought in by a wine-rep and left for me to taste when I arrived later that day. I remember my head swimming with complex, old world aromas, my tongue titillated by fine-grained tannins and a cascade of tomato-leaf, spice and earthy undertones, dancing across my palate.
As though a single beam of light sought it out in the din of Saturday's browsers, there it stood:
Tommasi Ripasso.
Not a Tuscan but a Veneto from Valpolicella. The 2009 vintage tasting stuck in my head for its qualities of elegance, broad structure and fine, lingering tannin. There's nothing like the perfect dichotomy of lightness and power to get my juices flowing (no really, my mouth is watering as I write) and I knew that this was the wine for tonight.
So, with my shop-weary feet, I trudged home past the Saturday night revelers priming for Sunday's regrets and entered my house triumphantly clutching an Italian gem, crying, "Honey, I'm home! What fabulous smells! Quick, grab a decanter!"
The Valpolicella lived up to all its promise and more. The technique of Ripasso is one which takes grapes grown in Valpolicella and dries them, traditionally on straw mats, prior to pressing the juice, this concentrates the sugars and lends a richness to the wine which maintains a beautiful dry, textured finish. This technique is also used for Amarone, a style which generally costs a lot more and doesn't always deliver as much 'Bang for Buck', at the very least requiring some aging before full appreciation can be achieved.
People often ask me, when discussing a new variety or style, what can you compare it to? This is always a tough question to answer, as each variety is very much an individual and different producers, regions and climates produce them in different ways. If I had to make such a supposition in this instance however, I would probably say that it has the structure of a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, with the lightness of a premium Pinot. Dominating flavours are akin to spiced chocolate and dried herbs and tomato leaf, and seamless, fine-grained tannins carry these gorgeous flavours in a cascade of vinous extravagance all the way from the top lip to the deep reaches of the throat, allowing this top quality Lasagne to weave it's cheesy, tomoatoey, beefy indulgence into the bargain, and had me closing my eyes in gourmandish revelry.
Love
This
Wine.
(About $45 from DMs)
"Ripasso" Valpolicella Classico Superiore Doc
| Vintage | 2009 |
| Origin | Vigneti Conca d’oro, La Groletta, De Buris |
| Grapes | Corvina Veronese 70% Rondinella 25% Corvinone 5% |
| Alcohol | 13% vol |
| Vinification and Maturation | Refermented on the Amarone grape skins with the method “Ripasso". Aged 18 months in Slavonian Oak barrels of 65 hectoliters. |
Saturday, November 5, 2011
To the Gills
Looking for a really good, low key. authentic European style brekky spot in Melbourne?
Gill's Diner
I have only been there previously for dinner (a whole new post will have to be dedicated to that wonderful set of experiences) but it was suggested that we go there for breakfast and experience their 'Commercial Bakery' side of the business.
When dining in the evening, Gill's accepts you into a large converted factory, tzujed up to create a warm and dynamic industrial dining environment. There is a section off to the side and down a few steps in low lighting, separated by a steel-framed glass partition which houses two large traditional Italian, lever-style coffee machines and a large display window featuring house baked breads, pastries and sweets. This is the brekky spot.
In the morning, it's somewhat sleepy, Ella Fitzgerald on the stereo, all the sights and smells one might expect from a favourable arrondissement, and relaxed, capable service.
We had a simple, fast-breaking 'meal' of Croissants and Cafe Lattes and it was just perfect. Great coffee, good Croiss and a perfect start to a morning of Melbourne shopping.Tops.
D
___________________
Gills Diner
03 9670 7214
Monday, September 26, 2011
Yering for a Real Treat
We have some family staying with us from England and, in discussing what sorts of experiences we might like to expose them to, it didn't take us long to decide that a day trip to the Yarra Valley would be a great introduction to our Garden State.
So, flowing down the Eastern Freeway on one of those Riedel-Clear Melbourne days, a splash of moussy white clouds high in the sky, we swirled in on the rolling green hills of the Yarra Valley; first stop, White Rabbit Brewery in Healesville for a refreshing ale.
This is a Sunday afternoon destination made in hedonist heaven. A large, sun-drenched veranda with comfy chairs and couches greets us, before entering what really is a makeshift bar, a kind of cobbled together lounge, as our visitor David said, as though the brewery had been pushed aside to accommodate it.
We ordered a round of mixed White Rabbit favourites, a Pipsqueak Cider, clean and refreshing, a White Ale, floral and cloudy, a Dark Ale, rich choc/coffee characters and a Rogers Amber Ale. I'm a big fan of Rogers primarily for its unique combination of heavier flavours and light style, a fact which had me drinking it before I even realised it is a mid strength ale. At 1 standard drink per bottle, it is the perfect BBQ beer (or refreshment for the designated driver).
Once 2.3o rolled around Giant Steps bistro was ready for our lunch booking and we ambled across the car park to the winery.
The Giant Steps / Innocent Bystander Winery has an incredible bistro attached. A great cafe bar at the entrance, selling house-made bread and pastries (and their wines of course) introducing a grand dining hall with a great relaxed vibe. Slightly noisy, this only adds to the fun environment.
For me, the draw-card of the bistro is the pizza menu, great, wood-fired pizzas, which even on a Sunday afternoon, with a full room come to the table within 15 minutes.
We had a mushroom, a spicy sausage, and I can't remember the name of mine but it had an unctuous spread of sweet, delicious tomato sauce, just thick enough to hold onto the whole anchovies, draped amongst oozing Reggiano. Let me get a Chamois for my keyboard...
We were worried that a pizza each might be too much, well, it was just right. Well, actually it was just right for me but a little much for my wife, at which point I helped her finish.
We drank 2010 Giant Steps Pinot Noir (Sexton Vineyard) and this is classic Yarra Valley Pinot, sour cherry but not too sour, earthy without the undergrowth, dry enough and medium bodied. These Giant steps wines do improve with age and I have tasted their 'Harry's Monster' Cab blend before which, being from what I consider one of Australia's best Cabernet regions, is a total knockout.
The Yarra Valley is probably most well known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and, although I thoroughly agree with its deserving fame for the latter, I think it produces far better Cabernet and Cabernet blends than Pinot. The pinots are undoubtedly drinkable and deserving of recognition, but the Cabernets, from Mount Mary to Punt Road are expressive, delicate, long lived and fascinating.
Anyway, we didn't have any Cabernet, so, whatevs.
From here, we made our way across the valley, Southern Victoria still blessing us with flooding sunlight, up the Melba Hwy towards Yarra Glen, pulling in to the elegant drive of the region's first and arguably most famous Winery, Yering Station.
I have a tradition of always buying a bottle (or two) of something from Yering Station that can't be bought anywhere else. An exciting draw-card for me is that they are forever producing smallish quantities of wines available at cellar door only - small parcels of fruit they are experimenting with and every time I'm there it's something different. An amazing Nebbiolo in 2005, a lovely soft and moreish Sangiovese in 2006, a non-vintage Tawny last year... I was eagerly anticipating today's treat.
We wandered through the garden entrance and under the grand atrium to admire the unique and quite stunning view east over the ranges.
A turn back through some glass doors towards the restaurant reveals windows into the underground cellar, which is cavernous and old-worldly - on past a museum-like display spanning the corridor's wall, of many and varied Yering Station wines through the vintages, and finally, a Methuselah of 1999 Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon (that I would die for).
So, flowing down the Eastern Freeway on one of those Riedel-Clear Melbourne days, a splash of moussy white clouds high in the sky, we swirled in on the rolling green hills of the Yarra Valley; first stop, White Rabbit Brewery in Healesville for a refreshing ale.This is a Sunday afternoon destination made in hedonist heaven. A large, sun-drenched veranda with comfy chairs and couches greets us, before entering what really is a makeshift bar, a kind of cobbled together lounge, as our visitor David said, as though the brewery had been pushed aside to accommodate it.
We ordered a round of mixed White Rabbit favourites, a Pipsqueak Cider, clean and refreshing, a White Ale, floral and cloudy, a Dark Ale, rich choc/coffee characters and a Rogers Amber Ale. I'm a big fan of Rogers primarily for its unique combination of heavier flavours and light style, a fact which had me drinking it before I even realised it is a mid strength ale. At 1 standard drink per bottle, it is the perfect BBQ beer (or refreshment for the designated driver).
Once 2.3o rolled around Giant Steps bistro was ready for our lunch booking and we ambled across the car park to the winery.The Giant Steps / Innocent Bystander Winery has an incredible bistro attached. A great cafe bar at the entrance, selling house-made bread and pastries (and their wines of course) introducing a grand dining hall with a great relaxed vibe. Slightly noisy, this only adds to the fun environment.
For me, the draw-card of the bistro is the pizza menu, great, wood-fired pizzas, which even on a Sunday afternoon, with a full room come to the table within 15 minutes.We had a mushroom, a spicy sausage, and I can't remember the name of mine but it had an unctuous spread of sweet, delicious tomato sauce, just thick enough to hold onto the whole anchovies, draped amongst oozing Reggiano. Let me get a Chamois for my keyboard...
We were worried that a pizza each might be too much, well, it was just right. Well, actually it was just right for me but a little much for my wife, at which point I helped her finish.
We drank 2010 Giant Steps Pinot Noir (Sexton Vineyard) and this is classic Yarra Valley Pinot, sour cherry but not too sour, earthy without the undergrowth, dry enough and medium bodied. These Giant steps wines do improve with age and I have tasted their 'Harry's Monster' Cab blend before which, being from what I consider one of Australia's best Cabernet regions, is a total knockout.The Yarra Valley is probably most well known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and, although I thoroughly agree with its deserving fame for the latter, I think it produces far better Cabernet and Cabernet blends than Pinot. The pinots are undoubtedly drinkable and deserving of recognition, but the Cabernets, from Mount Mary to Punt Road are expressive, delicate, long lived and fascinating.
Anyway, we didn't have any Cabernet, so, whatevs.
From here, we made our way across the valley, Southern Victoria still blessing us with flooding sunlight, up the Melba Hwy towards Yarra Glen, pulling in to the elegant drive of the region's first and arguably most famous Winery, Yering Station.
I have a tradition of always buying a bottle (or two) of something from Yering Station that can't be bought anywhere else. An exciting draw-card for me is that they are forever producing smallish quantities of wines available at cellar door only - small parcels of fruit they are experimenting with and every time I'm there it's something different. An amazing Nebbiolo in 2005, a lovely soft and moreish Sangiovese in 2006, a non-vintage Tawny last year... I was eagerly anticipating today's treat.
We wandered through the garden entrance and under the grand atrium to admire the unique and quite stunning view east over the ranges.
A turn back through some glass doors towards the restaurant reveals windows into the underground cellar, which is cavernous and old-worldly - on past a museum-like display spanning the corridor's wall, of many and varied Yering Station wines through the vintages, and finally, a Methuselah of 1999 Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon (that I would die for).Back through some heavy glass doors and towards the business end; the shop and Cellar Door.
On the tasting menu I immediately notice a 'Pinot Noir Village'. The word Village referencing a style of wine in France which is the kind of 'entry level' local version of whatever the particular appelation happens to be (Cotes Du Rhone Villages, for example, tends to be fruity and easy drinking version of their Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre style, generally cheaper and often VERY good). So with this we started.
And it was pretty great. It had more texture and tannin than I was expecting for an $18 Pinot. A strong backbone of acid carrying the not inconsiderable fruit weight to a long and pleasant finish.
This was my wine.
They also had some 'Museum' Chardonnay for tasting, which was in fact the regular Chardonnay in the 2006 vintage, that would've been great and exciting, except that we have a few bottles at home and it seems to be asleep or something. I know that white wines can develop over the short term and then enter a plateau or sleep period, before developping further. Ah, the enigmatic world of wine!
A turn around the shop revealed more treats one can only find in THAT shop; YS RESERVE Pinot Noir (in fact, the estate Pinot can be rather hard to find too) YS Reserve Shiraz Viognier (again, the estate SV is one of the best value reds on the market) and they are still selling that lovely Sangiovese, called MUIR as it comes from that vineyard.
So, my latest purchase of rare elixir from Victoria's first vineyard in the crook of my arm, the sun on our faces (and in our eyes as we head back down the freeway) I am glad that this latest visit to the undulating Yarra Valley has lived up to all its epicurian promises.
D.
________________
On the tasting menu I immediately notice a 'Pinot Noir Village'. The word Village referencing a style of wine in France which is the kind of 'entry level' local version of whatever the particular appelation happens to be (Cotes Du Rhone Villages, for example, tends to be fruity and easy drinking version of their Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre style, generally cheaper and often VERY good). So with this we started.
And it was pretty great. It had more texture and tannin than I was expecting for an $18 Pinot. A strong backbone of acid carrying the not inconsiderable fruit weight to a long and pleasant finish.
This was my wine.
They also had some 'Museum' Chardonnay for tasting, which was in fact the regular Chardonnay in the 2006 vintage, that would've been great and exciting, except that we have a few bottles at home and it seems to be asleep or something. I know that white wines can develop over the short term and then enter a plateau or sleep period, before developping further. Ah, the enigmatic world of wine!
A turn around the shop revealed more treats one can only find in THAT shop; YS RESERVE Pinot Noir (in fact, the estate Pinot can be rather hard to find too) YS Reserve Shiraz Viognier (again, the estate SV is one of the best value reds on the market) and they are still selling that lovely Sangiovese, called MUIR as it comes from that vineyard.
So, my latest purchase of rare elixir from Victoria's first vineyard in the crook of my arm, the sun on our faces (and in our eyes as we head back down the freeway) I am glad that this latest visit to the undulating Yarra Valley has lived up to all its epicurian promises.
D.
________________YERING STATION:
38 Melba Hwy Yarra Glen 3775
Victoria, Australia
View on map »
Driving directions »
Phone: +61 3 9730 0100
Fax: +61 3 9739 0135
Email: info@yering.com
Web site: www.yering.com
38 Melba Hwy Yarra Glen 3775
Victoria, Australia
View on map »
Driving directions »
Phone: +61 3 9730 0100
Fax: +61 3 9739 0135
Email: info@yering.com
Web site: www.yering.com
Monday-Friday
10:00am-5:00pm
Weekends & Public Holidays
10:00am-6:00pm
Monday, September 12, 2011
Praise Cheeses / Raclette me at 'em
Had a great wine and food experience at my sister Sophie and her partner Mark's place on Friday night.
The brief was cheese and wine.
We like to think outside the box...
You may not know that Sophie and I spent the first 8 and 6 respective years of our lives in Switzerland. Mama and Daddy Banks moved to the land of cheese and chocolate in 1975, 'just for a few years' to take up a job at the GATT; they did in fact fall in love with the place and stay nine years, returning with a troupe of three kids. Little Jules was only 18 months when we returned but there's still plenty of cuckoo in him.
One of the great culinary curios we brought back with us is Raclette.
Traditionally Raclette is a semi firm cheese, in a round of about 6 kgs which diners would halve and then heat in front of the fire and scrape onto their dishes, over potatoes and pickled veggies and small goods. The word Raclette is actually derived from the French 'Racler' meaning Scrape.
You can still have Raclette this way all over Switzerland and the Savoie in France but the alternative for ex-pats is a Raclette machine. This machine constitutes a strong Banks tradition and is basically a grill plate on an electric element under which paddles of cheese are placed and on top of which the trimmings can be placed to warm and sizzle.
This is what we dined on at Soph's place Friday night. I managed to source some 'Heidi Raclette' cheese from Jones the Grocer in Doncaster and was tasked with choosing the appropriate wines.
I have been working at a store in the outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne which has some great little gems from past vintages, one of these gems was a 2005 Woodstock Botrytis Semillon. More commonly 'Dessert Wine'; Semillon grapes are left to overripen on the vine until Botrytis Cynerea known as 'Noble Rot' begins to grow on the grapes. The winemaking process is then undertaken and an incredible magic is produced in the form of white wines which are sweet, smell of apricots and in the best examples have fascinating mineral character, full body and will live a very long time. Woodstock is a winery based in McLaren Vale, making big heavy reds and this beautiful little Dessert. Something for after, I thought. (Not that it wouldn't be pretty fun during)
I also knew I had a bottle of 2005 Brown Brothers Patricia Sparkling in the fridge at home and felt like this would be just perfect before and during the cheese feast.
Let me tell you; despite their reputation for cheap, sweet, unsophisticated fizzy wines, Brown Brothers excel in world class, complex, long lived premium wines which will stand proud and tall next to any other wine of their kind. As I said to Mark; if you need a premium wine for a special occasion, a gift, or just to spoil, Patricia is a no-brainer.
I have seen Patricia Cabernet next to Chateau Lynch Moussas, Patricia Chardonnay next to Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Patricia Sparkling next to Louis Roederer and Bollinger and let me say they put in quite a performance, easily equaling and often outshining these far more expensive and famous wines. (get Pat for about $40!)
Sophie is responsible for possiby my very favourite appetiser - Gougeres - an incredible baked choux pastry mixed with Gruyere cheese which has its origins in Burgundy.
And so with this delight we started the evening, after firing the cork out of the Patricia, (and toasting a new job for Soph), we tucked into this brilliant, indulgent feast, the bubbly cuddled up to the food with lovely flavours of citrus and gentle bready notes, the texture just enough to cut through the oily cheese. So much of the enjoyment in this meal is the interactiveness. Loading up your paddle with cheese, sliding it under the heat (I like to get mine get REALLY melted, to the point of crispy edges), hearing the potatos sizzle on the grill and deciding where to scrape your next ooze of Fromage; on the spuds? Over some prosciutto and a round of Baguette? Just onto the plate to behave as the world's best sauce?
Heaven.
Mark had some amazing chocolate from Haigh's and I too had brought some Willies Chocolate and, although the flavours of chocolate and Botrytis Semillon aren't necessarily a perfect match (better off with Key Lime Pie?), there was a feast of sweetness to be had and I indulged heavily. The wine was soft and alluring, classic apricot and mineral notes with a palate that was slightly over sweet and short (although this is possibly attributable to the choc).
We reclined on the lounge and concluded that remorse is pointless when food and wine are this good.
DB out.
The brief was cheese and wine.
We like to think outside the box...
You may not know that Sophie and I spent the first 8 and 6 respective years of our lives in Switzerland. Mama and Daddy Banks moved to the land of cheese and chocolate in 1975, 'just for a few years' to take up a job at the GATT; they did in fact fall in love with the place and stay nine years, returning with a troupe of three kids. Little Jules was only 18 months when we returned but there's still plenty of cuckoo in him.
One of the great culinary curios we brought back with us is Raclette.
Traditionally Raclette is a semi firm cheese, in a round of about 6 kgs which diners would halve and then heat in front of the fire and scrape onto their dishes, over potatoes and pickled veggies and small goods. The word Raclette is actually derived from the French 'Racler' meaning Scrape.
This is what we dined on at Soph's place Friday night. I managed to source some 'Heidi Raclette' cheese from Jones the Grocer in Doncaster and was tasked with choosing the appropriate wines.
I have been working at a store in the outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne which has some great little gems from past vintages, one of these gems was a 2005 Woodstock Botrytis Semillon. More commonly 'Dessert Wine'; Semillon grapes are left to overripen on the vine until Botrytis Cynerea known as 'Noble Rot' begins to grow on the grapes. The winemaking process is then undertaken and an incredible magic is produced in the form of white wines which are sweet, smell of apricots and in the best examples have fascinating mineral character, full body and will live a very long time. Woodstock is a winery based in McLaren Vale, making big heavy reds and this beautiful little Dessert. Something for after, I thought. (Not that it wouldn't be pretty fun during)
I also knew I had a bottle of 2005 Brown Brothers Patricia Sparkling in the fridge at home and felt like this would be just perfect before and during the cheese feast.
Let me tell you; despite their reputation for cheap, sweet, unsophisticated fizzy wines, Brown Brothers excel in world class, complex, long lived premium wines which will stand proud and tall next to any other wine of their kind. As I said to Mark; if you need a premium wine for a special occasion, a gift, or just to spoil, Patricia is a no-brainer.
I have seen Patricia Cabernet next to Chateau Lynch Moussas, Patricia Chardonnay next to Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Patricia Sparkling next to Louis Roederer and Bollinger and let me say they put in quite a performance, easily equaling and often outshining these far more expensive and famous wines. (get Pat for about $40!)
Sophie is responsible for possiby my very favourite appetiser - Gougeres - an incredible baked choux pastry mixed with Gruyere cheese which has its origins in Burgundy.
And so with this delight we started the evening, after firing the cork out of the Patricia, (and toasting a new job for Soph), we tucked into this brilliant, indulgent feast, the bubbly cuddled up to the food with lovely flavours of citrus and gentle bready notes, the texture just enough to cut through the oily cheese. So much of the enjoyment in this meal is the interactiveness. Loading up your paddle with cheese, sliding it under the heat (I like to get mine get REALLY melted, to the point of crispy edges), hearing the potatos sizzle on the grill and deciding where to scrape your next ooze of Fromage; on the spuds? Over some prosciutto and a round of Baguette? Just onto the plate to behave as the world's best sauce?
Heaven.
Mark had some amazing chocolate from Haigh's and I too had brought some Willies Chocolate and, although the flavours of chocolate and Botrytis Semillon aren't necessarily a perfect match (better off with Key Lime Pie?), there was a feast of sweetness to be had and I indulged heavily. The wine was soft and alluring, classic apricot and mineral notes with a palate that was slightly over sweet and short (although this is possibly attributable to the choc).
We reclined on the lounge and concluded that remorse is pointless when food and wine are this good.
DB out.
Back to The Future
When I started this blog, I was discussing it with a good friend and admirable wine professional, Tim Robinson; we were on the road back from a trip to Heathcote and discussing the cathartic nature of pooring one's wine thoughts onto the 'page' and thought it might be a good idea for Tim to make a contribution.
I loved the idea and, having read many of Tim's reviews on points of sale, having had many a gourmand experience together and generally tending to see the world at large and in particular world of wine through similarly coloured (and probably blurry) glasses, I really looked forward to receiving just such an offering.
Here it is:
____________________________________________
Back to The Future
blackhearts and sparrows
www.blackheartsandsparrows.com.au
Blackhearts and Sparrows wine purveyors
I loved the idea and, having read many of Tim's reviews on points of sale, having had many a gourmand experience together and generally tending to see the world at large and in particular world of wine through similarly coloured (and probably blurry) glasses, I really looked forward to receiving just such an offering.
Here it is:
____________________________________________
Back to The Future
I've definitely been in the mood lately for nostalgia. Been flicking through old photos, the real ones, not the digital Facebook kind, as well playing a bit of Icehouse and 1927 on the iPod. Don't judge me, you know Ish was one of the albums of all time! All that thinking about how fantastic everything was 20 years ago, got me thinking about something old school on the wine side of things.
And the natural conclusion? Full-bodied, rich, buttery, creamy, viscous, malo, French oak matured, old fashioned chardonnay. It's been coming to the attention of many wine retailers that we're after a chardonnay with a bit of generosity. A bit of richness. A bit of warmth. If you're looking for a Chablis-style? Buy a Chablis! Want an unwooded Chardy? Grab a riesling!
The brief was given to my local indie wine haunt, and Warner Glen Estate chardonnay is what was thrust into my awaiting hands. Gotta admit to not knowing a hell of a lot -read nothing- about Warner Glen. Seems they're a 20 year old vineyard with a heavy focus on terroir, site selection and 100% estate fruit.
Their 08 chard gave me the nostalgic trip I was looking for. Michael J. Fox would've been proud. Marzipan, almonds, hazelnut & cream. Brief fulfilled. Bruce Dukes is the winemaker here, and with extensive experience in the Napa and with Pierro, it's no wonder this sings a little. The judges at the Mt Barker Wine Show didn't mind it either.
Available at some good indie retails around the country, grab yourself a WGE chardy for around $25.
blackhearts and sparrows
www.blackheartsandsparrows.com.au
Blackhearts and Sparrows wine purveyors
Monday, July 25, 2011
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Born and Bread
I haven't bought a loaf of bread in 6 months.
I have, however been eating more bread that you can shake a tin of yeast at.
The answer to this delicious conundrum is Mama's Bread Recipe.
For years, my Mum has been making bread from a recipe devised at Domaine De L'arlot, in Bourgogne, France by the Lady of the house, Madame De Smet.
Madame De Smet, playing host year round to visitors at the winery, needed fresh food that was as delicious and easy to prepare as the wine tastings.
Madame discovered a way of making delicious, rustic, crusty bread with a fraction of the effort it takes using the conventional Double Proving method, involving hours of waiting for the yeast to do its work and kneading the dough again and again. She developped a method requiring a maximum 5 minutes' work.
It's as simple as combining the flour, yeast and salt, adding water, mix, put in fridge overnight. In the morning, throw it in the oven, 45 mins later; awesome crusty bread.
Presumably, given the right proportions of ingredients, the technique of proving in the fridge allows the yeast to act much more slowly, circumventing the knead (pun intended) to punch it down repeatedly.
Now, the oven at our place SUCKS and we've discovered that we have to bake for more like 70 mins, rotating the loaves (recipe makes 2) from time to time but we've now perfected the technique and have beautiful fresh bread, hot from the oven every day. (well, every couple of days anyway, even I can't eat 2 loaves in a day)
This recipe has been gradually spreading throughout the kitchens of my family members. My sister makes it (it comes out proud and perfect from her good oven) my Father-in-Law makes it and substitutes a cup of the flour for some mixed seeds, mum sometimes uses half spelt flour or even rye.
The thing is; it works everytime! It doesn't even necessarily look or feel the same every time you make it, but have faith in Madame De Smet, stick it in the oven, do a little bread dance and the reslut will always be brilliant.
So, next time you're having people over, have some of this bread chopped up on the table with some soft french cheese, maybe a saucer of good EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and a bottle of Pinot. WINNER.
So, here's the recipe, use it and never look back, simply laugh callously as you pass the bread aisle in your supermarket...
Next day, take the bowl from the fridge and leave it to come back to room temperature. Prepare two flat trays by lining with baking paper and sprinkling generously with flour.
Using a dough scraper remove the dough from the bowl to a floured bench. Cut the dough in half. With floured hands lightly shape each piece into a round. Place the dough on floured trays and press/pull lightly into flattish ciabatta shapes. Flip them over so that the wrinkled, floured sides are now on top. Place the trays in a cold, fan-forced oven set to 220C. Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until the bread sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on wire racks.
I have, however been eating more bread that you can shake a tin of yeast at.
"But, wait! what the..?" I hear you say...
The answer to this delicious conundrum is Mama's Bread Recipe.
For years, my Mum has been making bread from a recipe devised at Domaine De L'arlot, in Bourgogne, France by the Lady of the house, Madame De Smet.
Madame De Smet, playing host year round to visitors at the winery, needed fresh food that was as delicious and easy to prepare as the wine tastings.
Madame discovered a way of making delicious, rustic, crusty bread with a fraction of the effort it takes using the conventional Double Proving method, involving hours of waiting for the yeast to do its work and kneading the dough again and again. She developped a method requiring a maximum 5 minutes' work.
It's as simple as combining the flour, yeast and salt, adding water, mix, put in fridge overnight. In the morning, throw it in the oven, 45 mins later; awesome crusty bread.
Presumably, given the right proportions of ingredients, the technique of proving in the fridge allows the yeast to act much more slowly, circumventing the knead (pun intended) to punch it down repeatedly.
Now, the oven at our place SUCKS and we've discovered that we have to bake for more like 70 mins, rotating the loaves (recipe makes 2) from time to time but we've now perfected the technique and have beautiful fresh bread, hot from the oven every day. (well, every couple of days anyway, even I can't eat 2 loaves in a day)
This recipe has been gradually spreading throughout the kitchens of my family members. My sister makes it (it comes out proud and perfect from her good oven) my Father-in-Law makes it and substitutes a cup of the flour for some mixed seeds, mum sometimes uses half spelt flour or even rye.
The thing is; it works everytime! It doesn't even necessarily look or feel the same every time you make it, but have faith in Madame De Smet, stick it in the oven, do a little bread dance and the reslut will always be brilliant.
So, next time you're having people over, have some of this bread chopped up on the table with some soft french cheese, maybe a saucer of good EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and a bottle of Pinot. WINNER.
So, here's the recipe, use it and never look back, simply laugh callously as you pass the bread aisle in your supermarket...
- 1 kg strong unbleached bread flour (I use Wallaby Baker's Flour)
- 1 tbsp instant yeast
- 1 tbsp salt (don't use less, I tried, it doesn't work)
- 950ml lukewarm water
- Extra flour for dusting and shaping
Next day, take the bowl from the fridge and leave it to come back to room temperature. Prepare two flat trays by lining with baking paper and sprinkling generously with flour.Using a dough scraper remove the dough from the bowl to a floured bench. Cut the dough in half. With floured hands lightly shape each piece into a round. Place the dough on floured trays and press/pull lightly into flattish ciabatta shapes. Flip them over so that the wrinkled, floured sides are now on top. Place the trays in a cold, fan-forced oven set to 220C. Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until the bread sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on wire racks.
VOILA!
Note: In doing some research for the finer details of this recipe i came accross a blog from Pinot Shop which essentially says everything i've just said. Oh well. I'm happy to share blog subjects with such an illustrious cohort.
Note: In doing some research for the finer details of this recipe i came accross a blog from Pinot Shop which essentially says everything i've just said. Oh well. I'm happy to share blog subjects with such an illustrious cohort.
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Monday, July 18, 2011
Bargain Shiraz
Occasionally a wine comes along which completely surpasses all expectations. A wine that excites and amazes even before you find out that you can easily afford it. This is what I call a wine bargain. Clever name, huh?
In the past it has been Tahbilk Shiraz and Metala White Label, Domaine Des Amoureux Muscadet and Buller Muscat. This time a wine popped up in a tasting that I picked as probably old-world (french, I thought) probably a blend, rich and elegant, smelling of rich aromatics, lifted herbs and ripe fruit with a palate that was even, soft and long as your arm. Flavours of violet and cassis, chocolate and spice. Exciting in all ways. At a guess we thought, $35 at the low end but potentially $50.
Then we took it out of the bag and saw that it was Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2010.
Jaws dropped. Jaws still racing with the flavour of the wine. It's currently on Special at Australia's biggest wine retailer for $15.70.
In the past it has been Tahbilk Shiraz and Metala White Label, Domaine Des Amoureux Muscadet and Buller Muscat. This time a wine popped up in a tasting that I picked as probably old-world (french, I thought) probably a blend, rich and elegant, smelling of rich aromatics, lifted herbs and ripe fruit with a palate that was even, soft and long as your arm. Flavours of violet and cassis, chocolate and spice. Exciting in all ways. At a guess we thought, $35 at the low end but potentially $50.
Then we took it out of the bag and saw that it was Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2010.Jaws dropped. Jaws still racing with the flavour of the wine. It's currently on Special at Australia's biggest wine retailer for $15.70.
WINE
BARGAIN!
BARGAIN!
________________________
http://www.torzimatthews.com.au/detail/?item=PrdctsSchistRo
2010 Schist Rock Shiraz
http://www.torzimatthews.com.au/detail/?item=PrdctsSchistRo
A perfectly Sanguine Sunday
"Wine's not just a drink, it's an art form. Now where's my brush?"
David Anderson - Wild Duck Creek
David Anderson - Wild Duck Creek
The people in this photo are random victims of my kneejerk photography.Now, with a little (read 'heaps of') help from Robert Parker Jr, the Wild Duck Creek wines, in particular Duck Muck, have gained a cult following in the USA. RP gave the '97 Duck Muck 99 points and from there the winery took on an ethereal life of its own.
Suffice to say we were expecting some pretty special stuff this rainy sunday, after a two hour drive from Melbourne. The winery was buzzing with excited visitors lining up to try the new releases and we joined the queue; sampling
Little White Duck Viognier
Alan's Cabernet
The Blend Cabernet Merlot
Yellow Hammer Hill Shiraz Malbec
Spring Flat Shiraz
The wines were big and juicy (and shiny for some reason, thanks Mark) but we found they were lacking in structure. Perhaps they need a little time, but they aren't exactly inexpensive so we weren't particularly tempted to find out.
There were barrels dotted around the winery displaying platters of bread and saucers of Olive Oil, hungry after our drive (and hungover from Saturday's Duck and Pinot dinner) we snacked away and really liked the oil. Turns out it is Cold Pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil from the winery itself. We bought 9 bottles between the 5 of us, along with some wines for gifts. Despite not loving the wines ourselves, the fact remains that the world at large DOES love them and who are we to pass judgement on THAT.
In the pouring rain we made our way back into the town of Heathcote to visit Heathcote Winery, a widely distributed and fairly reliable producer of such wines as Craven's Place and Mail Coach Shiraz.
The Cellar Door was busy, I suspect due to the overflow from WDC and once our host was available to serve us he was very attentive and professional, a man who knew his job and through him we discovered some wines with structure and very reasonable price tags, an enjoyable flight of very drinkable wines.
Upon enquiring what our next move should be, our host didn't hesitate in recommending we visit Sanguine Estate, which also only opens to visitors without appointment a couple of times a year. The lovely part about visiting wineries which don't have commercial cellar doors is that you often get to just hang out in the winery, and Sanguine was a GREAT example of this.
In contrast to the unassuming entry to Wild Duck, Sanguine has an undulating drive, flanked by grand trees and winding past dams and the Sanguine Vineyard itself. The winery building is as grandiose as the entree, through huge barn doors we're greeted by a huge and very modern looking winery, lined on one side by steel fermentation tanks and on the other by French Oak Barrels.
On the far side there is a bar set up and, from behind it a gentleman calls "G'day! Come in, don't be shy!"We are invited by Winery founder Tony Hunter and the greeting, along with the atmosphere and as it turns out, the wine is warm and inviting.
Tony talks with authority, knowledge and passion about the wines which are grown just outside those grand walls and made made all around us, pushed by gravity, combining modern facilities with traditional methods.We tasted
Sanguine 2009 Chardonnay
Sanguine 2008 Cabernet Blend
Sanguine 2008 Tempranillo
Sanguine 2009 Progeny Shiraz
Sanguine 2008 Estate Shiraz
Sanguine 2007 D'orsa Shiraz
And WOW.
These wines are brilliant. The Chardonnay is lean and mouth-wateringly moreish in a Chablisienne style, with an individual chracter seemingly exessive for its $19.95 price tag.
The Temp is also leaner than expected, medium bodied but ripe and generous in flavour, also an apparent bargain at $24.95
My favourite was the Estate Shiraz. A truly harmonious wine, balancing clear and distinct flavour with silky, broad palate and a soft, lingering finish. I can't wait to open mine with a good roast, casserole or ragout pasta.
So Sanguine Estate managed to evaporate any hint of disappointment we may have experienced in Heathcote and it was unanimous that Sanguine is now our favourite Heathcote destination.
Thanks Tony. We travelled home with a glass half full.
___________________________
Address:
ABN: 87 007 007 801
Postal Address:
PO Box 669
Heathcote VIC 3523
Vineyard and Winery address:
77 Shurans Lane
Heathcote Victoria 3523
Postal Address:
PO Box 669
Heathcote VIC 3523
Vineyard and Winery address:
77 Shurans Lane
Heathcote Victoria 3523
Phone:
Vineyard Phone: + 61 3 54 33 3111
Email:
jodi@sanguinewines.com.au
This Weekend:Tahbilk 1927 Vines 2000 Vintage Marsanne
Selbach Oster 2007 Spatlese Riesling
Ata Rangi 2002 Pinot Noir
Farr Rising 2007 Pinot Noir
Torbreck 2009 'Juveniles' GSM
Teusner 2010 'Dog Strangler' Mourvedre
Monday, May 9, 2011
disGrace
My friend Slatty D invited the wife and me around for tea.
He's not a man I will ever turn down an invitation from, he's been responsible for some of the best wine moments of my life.
Slatty has a cellar that would be the envy of many a seasoned collector, wines that will never see old age because, for Slatty wine is for drinking. Slatty knows how to live.
I try to always bring something a bit special for Slatty and on this occasion I had dug up a bottle of Coppin Grove Sparkling. Talk about wines with a sense of 'Place', this wine is grown not 1km from my house, in Hawthorn! I had seen a little vineyard next to a pedestrian bridge over the Yarra and sought out the wine. Comprising the traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and made at the Cope-Williams winery in Macedon. The wine has been aged for two years on yeast in the bottle and this lends a lovely complexity to the elegant, dry palate.
Now, this particular bottle of Coppin Grove Sparkling was completely flat and maybe a little oxidised. We TOTES still drank it and it was still pretty tasty, dry, full, minerally with some cool kero flavours, almost like an aged Chablis. I have had it before, with full fizz and it has a lovely creamy mousse and a buttery, cheesy quality that I love in good Champagnes but I must admit, I kinda liked this little rebel. Lots of attitude and a quirky little surprise.
We hung out beside the bbq, watching the locally produced eye fillets cook, talking about 'The Big Butcher' they were bought from and my friend in turn produced his first wine of the night, a 2001 Tyrrell's Futures Selection Shiraz. This wine was a mastery of age and harmony. It showed all the earthy, leathery notes you might expect from the Hunter region, with a lovely incorporation of fine-grain tannins which lend a body full and soft and replete with dark fruit flavours and reminiscent of old world wines of very high quality (and price).
With entree we drank 2007 Hanging Rock Members' Reserve JSE Shiraz, this wine was obviously full fruit and alcohol but maybe a little big for me, I wonder if a lack of finesse and complexity could be due to a bad vintage or perhaps this wine is a bit young. It was certainly no slouch as far as great flavour, length and body and certainly a good match for red meat.
When the steaks were plated up our friend presented a bottle of 2006 Chateau Duhart Milon from the Pauillac appellation of Bordeaux and, I believe classified as 4th growth. I think that the varieties involved are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
These wines always amaze me with their ability to balance intense power with pure elegance and this wine was no exception. Far from the overly tannic, disjointed Bordeaux at the cheaper end, this wine has it all, plush, ripe fruit, beautiful structure and an incredible cured meat aroma which is endlessly compelling. Having said that the Hanging Rock might have been too young, I do think a good wine is always a good wine, and I sure am glad I got to see this young beauty.
All this time, there's a decanter sitting on the table, quietly doing it's thing and subtly daring us to guess its identity. It doesn't look weird in any way, not bricky or tawny so I guess that it's not old. But knowing my friend like I do and seeing the way he's been handling that decanter I am trying not to hope that it's in the very highest echelons of wine. I never put it past him to provide Grange, Chateau Margaux or, as on one occasion, a bottle of 1999 Dom Perignon which was consumed in my van in transit from one house to the next.
When we're ready to move on to this wine my friend's house mate says that he'll "clean up a little", and moves the decanter a few inches to wipe the table, the decanter taps a neighbouring bottle and, sickeningly, breaks open on one side, its contents glugging hopelessly onto the bench.
Now, my friend Slatty D is a man of great stoicism, a man of pride and integrity and I must say, I was most of the way to guessing the identity of this particular secret wine purely from his reaction. It was a sort of heartbreaking combination of unbridled shock, pure grief and a petite waif on the verge of taking a turn.
So I am trying to assess the gravity of the situation, the housemate KNOWS what he's done, Slatty D is imploring housemate#2 to "please remove the kitchen sponge from that puddle of wine". I figure if he's THAT keen not to taint the wine, even though it's all of a millilitre high and has a circumference of a broadsheet newspaper, perhaps we should save it.
And so the directive begin to fly - fetch the squeegee (they had a squeegee (and they knew where it was)) - Look, here's some muslin (yup, that too) - and before the elixir spread its garnet to the very edge of the bench we were squeegeeing it into a plastic bowl, eversa carefully.
Before you could say "I hope that muslin wasn't used to make some sort of consommé or sumthin" we had approximately 650ml of seriously aromatic red wine in a perfectly respectable decanter in the middle of the table and the heady satisfaction of rescue in our hearts.
So Slatty D pours the wine, we swirl, smell, drink, repeat...
Slatty says, "whaddya think?" and I think it's sublime. The tannins are fiiiine and so well integrate to the braod, long, silken palate of dark cherries, violets and chocolate. It's long, we drink, talk to eachother, eat some steak and the taste of the wine is still there when the next sip arrives. It manages to sit flawlessly almost on the outside of my lip without breaking all the way to the back of my throat, I can almost taste it in my larynx. It's last year's Chateau Margaux all over again. (that story to come soon) But it's not Bordeaux. It's a wine which seems to transcend my ability to recognise variety. It has definite personality and uniqueness. I'm into it.
"I'll give you a hint" says Slatty D. "It's single Vineyard"
"Hill Of Grace" I say.
"Yup".
He's not a man I will ever turn down an invitation from, he's been responsible for some of the best wine moments of my life.
Slatty has a cellar that would be the envy of many a seasoned collector, wines that will never see old age because, for Slatty wine is for drinking. Slatty knows how to live.
I try to always bring something a bit special for Slatty and on this occasion I had dug up a bottle of Coppin Grove Sparkling. Talk about wines with a sense of 'Place', this wine is grown not 1km from my house, in Hawthorn! I had seen a little vineyard next to a pedestrian bridge over the Yarra and sought out the wine. Comprising the traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and made at the Cope-Williams winery in Macedon. The wine has been aged for two years on yeast in the bottle and this lends a lovely complexity to the elegant, dry palate.
Now, this particular bottle of Coppin Grove Sparkling was completely flat and maybe a little oxidised. We TOTES still drank it and it was still pretty tasty, dry, full, minerally with some cool kero flavours, almost like an aged Chablis. I have had it before, with full fizz and it has a lovely creamy mousse and a buttery, cheesy quality that I love in good Champagnes but I must admit, I kinda liked this little rebel. Lots of attitude and a quirky little surprise.We hung out beside the bbq, watching the locally produced eye fillets cook, talking about 'The Big Butcher' they were bought from and my friend in turn produced his first wine of the night, a 2001 Tyrrell's Futures Selection Shiraz. This wine was a mastery of age and harmony. It showed all the earthy, leathery notes you might expect from the Hunter region, with a lovely incorporation of fine-grain tannins which lend a body full and soft and replete with dark fruit flavours and reminiscent of old world wines of very high quality (and price).
With entree we drank 2007 Hanging Rock Members' Reserve JSE Shiraz, this wine was obviously full fruit and alcohol but maybe a little big for me, I wonder if a lack of finesse and complexity could be due to a bad vintage or perhaps this wine is a bit young. It was certainly no slouch as far as great flavour, length and body and certainly a good match for red meat.
When the steaks were plated up our friend presented a bottle of 2006 Chateau Duhart Milon from the Pauillac appellation of Bordeaux and, I believe classified as 4th growth. I think that the varieties involved are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.These wines always amaze me with their ability to balance intense power with pure elegance and this wine was no exception. Far from the overly tannic, disjointed Bordeaux at the cheaper end, this wine has it all, plush, ripe fruit, beautiful structure and an incredible cured meat aroma which is endlessly compelling. Having said that the Hanging Rock might have been too young, I do think a good wine is always a good wine, and I sure am glad I got to see this young beauty.
All this time, there's a decanter sitting on the table, quietly doing it's thing and subtly daring us to guess its identity. It doesn't look weird in any way, not bricky or tawny so I guess that it's not old. But knowing my friend like I do and seeing the way he's been handling that decanter I am trying not to hope that it's in the very highest echelons of wine. I never put it past him to provide Grange, Chateau Margaux or, as on one occasion, a bottle of 1999 Dom Perignon which was consumed in my van in transit from one house to the next.When we're ready to move on to this wine my friend's house mate says that he'll "clean up a little", and moves the decanter a few inches to wipe the table, the decanter taps a neighbouring bottle and, sickeningly, breaks open on one side, its contents glugging hopelessly onto the bench.
Now, my friend Slatty D is a man of great stoicism, a man of pride and integrity and I must say, I was most of the way to guessing the identity of this particular secret wine purely from his reaction. It was a sort of heartbreaking combination of unbridled shock, pure grief and a petite waif on the verge of taking a turn.
So I am trying to assess the gravity of the situation, the housemate KNOWS what he's done, Slatty D is imploring housemate#2 to "please remove the kitchen sponge from that puddle of wine". I figure if he's THAT keen not to taint the wine, even though it's all of a millilitre high and has a circumference of a broadsheet newspaper, perhaps we should save it.
And so the directive begin to fly - fetch the squeegee (they had a squeegee (and they knew where it was)) - Look, here's some muslin (yup, that too) - and before the elixir spread its garnet to the very edge of the bench we were squeegeeing it into a plastic bowl, eversa carefully.
Before you could say "I hope that muslin wasn't used to make some sort of consommé or sumthin" we had approximately 650ml of seriously aromatic red wine in a perfectly respectable decanter in the middle of the table and the heady satisfaction of rescue in our hearts.
So Slatty D pours the wine, we swirl, smell, drink, repeat...
Slatty says, "whaddya think?" and I think it's sublime. The tannins are fiiiine and so well integrate to the braod, long, silken palate of dark cherries, violets and chocolate. It's long, we drink, talk to eachother, eat some steak and the taste of the wine is still there when the next sip arrives. It manages to sit flawlessly almost on the outside of my lip without breaking all the way to the back of my throat, I can almost taste it in my larynx. It's last year's Chateau Margaux all over again. (that story to come soon) But it's not Bordeaux. It's a wine which seems to transcend my ability to recognise variety. It has definite personality and uniqueness. I'm into it.
"I'll give you a hint" says Slatty D. "It's single Vineyard"
"Hill Of Grace" I say.
"Yup".
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