The Missus and I were contemplating our next move on Friday, after a nice brekky and some shopping.
It's Good Friday, what's the plan?
A few options were floated; a picnic at the river on Richmond Landing *Romance,
hike the thousand steps in the Dandenongs *Activity,
go to the movies *Expensive,
or Phở *Vic Street.
I have it on good authority that it's pronounced more like Fur? as if you're asking the question, is that coat made of real fur?
The f.u.r concept of the pronunciation I'm down with but the inflection makes me feel, well, a bit silly. So, Pho, that's how I'm saying it.
What's Phở?
Phở is a Vietnamese rice noodle soup, usually Beef or Chicken (although authentic variations like giblets, liver and brisket abound) usually served with a side of Thai basil, bean shoots, fresh chili and lemon, with condiments like chili sauce and hoisin on the table, all of which can be added according to taste.
I first encountered this delight in Canberra at a restaurant called Tudo at the O'Connor shops. Tudo make particularly good Phở, it seems to be largely reliant, apart from quality fresh ingredients, on the power and flavour of the stock. There are rumours, which I'm yet to investigate, that some Phở stocks have been brewing away for years and years, simply being topped up, whereby leaving a modicum of the ancient original stock incorporated, much like a Louis XIII cognac, portions of which are over 100 years old.
We decided after little deliberation that Phở was the favourite idea, will it be open on Good Friday? the Mrs ruminated just as the memory of Australia day last year popped like a Phở bubble in my mind: We had chanced that I Love Phở 264 might be open and just jumped in the car, rocking up for lunch, to arrive and find it brimming with custom. Enquiring delightedly if they were generally open on holidays our genial host replied, we haven't closed in 11 years. To which my response was Well, great for us, not so great for you?
This fact really does give me some kind of wonderful culinary solace though, knowing that Melbourne's best Phở restaurant is always open, 5 minutes around the corner and will only cost me $9. This is the golden triangle of dining for me; location, product and service (the price doesn't hurt either, so maybe a square?)
Now, I'm ASSuming here but I'm quite sure this is a family business, there are two guys working the floor who can only be brothers so similar are their looks, a lovely older lady with a smile as warm as soup serving behind the counter and, my favourite, a diminutive elderly lady who could be a hundred, pottering around behind the scenes, putting up posters, filling napkin holders and standing all of about 4 ft 7. If she was only there to lend an air of authenticity it would be worth her while, but I think she's Grandma.
The fifth corner of my golden triangle, which by now looks more like a Pentagon, is that Je ne sais quoi. Something you just can't quite put your finger on that makes you feel at home, even when you're somewhere quite foreign, an atmosphere of loving embrace that puts you at ease and keeps it at the front of your mind, inviting you back more often than you might need.
I Love Phở 264 has this in spades and is, essentially, just a rectangular room with chairs and tables and a bit of a funky mural. Funnily enough, the business recently moved from 3 doors down, where they embodied the same atmosphere of hospitality. They used to be called Phở Chu The and moved about a year ago. Weirdly, another business with the name Phở Chu The reopened on the same site (perhaps a sale of goodwill?) which just doesn't capture the same vibe, despite being essentially the same thing.
We had beef Phở this time, the soup comes out piping hot, rare (or even raw) beef strips having just been thrown in atop fat rice noodles, green onions, white onions, coriander accompanied by the aforementioned plate of accouterments (a hilarious reference to french colonial Vietnam..?)
And it's just delicious, my mouth simmers with flavour memories as I write, they have a sauce on the table which seems to be a chili paste with oil floating on top and it is decadent and sweet and very hot, I throw in some fresh chopped chillies with it as well as a hand full of the bean-shoots, basil and a squeeze of lemon, dropping the spent lemon quarter in before tucking in.
It's fresh, it's comforting, it's very filling and seems somehow medicinal, perhaps a take on your mum's old chicken noodle soup remedy.
I often find it better to drink beer, a lighter, sweeter lager style like Tsingtao, Heineken, Peroni or the free supply of green tea with Phở but on this particular occasion we had an inclination towards cold white wine. I dug a bottle of 2004 Mt Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon out of the Cupboard and it was magnificent.
This wine ages in such a fascinating way that almost changes it completely. Within 4 or 5 years it goes from fresh citrus and minerals to full bodied honeysuckle and oil cloth, but always with a fresh, lively finish, zingy enough to withstand any millenia-old soup broth.
Do yourself a favour, any proud Melburnian knows this little gem, and every visitor should add it to the itinerary. Follow it up with a pint at the Royston Hotel, just a few Ks down the road.
You know what, I think I'll blog that next.
Mmmmmmmmmmm Beeeeeer.....
I
LOVE
Phở !
| Location | 264 Victoria Street, Richmond, VIC 3121 | ||||
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| Food Styles |
Vietnamese
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| Hours |
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| Specialties |
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Coffee
Drinks
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| Services |
Takes Reservations
Walk-Ins Welcome
Good For Groups
Good For Kids
Take Out
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| Parking |
Street
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| Public Transit | 109 tram church st stop 72 tram Victoria st stop | ||||
| Payment Options |
Cash Only
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Contact Info
| Phone | 94277749 |
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